Susak island - 100% sand

Unique Susak
Susak is one of the most unique islands on the Adriatic coast. It is located in the North Adriatic Sea in the region called Kvarner. Susak's origin, geology, architecture, tradition, animal, plants, language... it is a story for itself. 






A big pile of fine fertile sand

Drawings in sand

I have visited the island dozen of times and each time it amazes me with its uniqness. Like most of the islands in the Mediterranean sea it has a limestone plateau but on top of it Susak has a massive pile of fine fertile sand - which makes it one of a kind. Geologists even today wonder where the sand came from: one theory suggest that it came during the last ice age from river Rasa, while the other one claims that it came from Italian river Po. Whatever the case might be this IS a unique and interesting place to visit.

View of the bay from upper village

Sansego = Oregano
Name Susak or how local call it Sansego, comes from the Greek word Sansegus which means oregano, which is abundant throughout the island. There are two villages on the island: Gorenje selo (upper village) located on the hill and Donje selo (lower village). 

Traditional folk-custome during festival

Tradition folk-custumes and language
Susak is Island that is one of the most distant islands from the Croatian mainland and therefore it has retained many original traditions , such as archaic dialect and folk-costumes that are unique only to this little island. Dialect is impossible to understand whether you're Croatian, Italian, Austrian... Traditional folk-costumes are considered the most beautiful among all Croatian folk-costumes - rich in color and intricate details. Young women wear colorful short ballet tutu-shaped skirt, a matching vest and pink or orange woolen stockings. Now-days, traditional costumes are worn only for special festivities by young woman and men who perform traditional Susak dance. 


Migration to USA

The end of communist regime in 1990 marked a turning point in history of this island. People who have emigrated, once again could freely return to their island. However, due to the fact that most of these people still had jobs, families and their whole new lives in the United States, almost none have returned for good. The ones who retired have chosen to spend their last days on the island where they were born.

Vineyards in sand

Susak has long tradition in growing vine, even from Roman times, so it is considered that Susak wines are one of the best in Croatia. Vineyards are located on the hilltop of the island and it is impressive to see how Susak variety of wine has adapted to sand soil. When you're on Susak make sure you visit Kozulich winery in the upper village and try Sansego or Trojiscina red wine.

Accommodation
There are many houses on Susak that are available for rent. One of the is apartments Tarabokija or check out local agency. In case you are visiting Susak just for the day, then I recommend staying in seaside apartments in nearby island of Losinj.

(text and photos: www.wikipedia.com, www.find-croatia.com, www.tz-malilosinj.hr)

Croatia - small country for BIG wines

Viticulture - Plavac Mali

Saint Nedjelja - Hvar island

One of the best known Croatian wines, and my personal favorite is Plavac Mali (aka known as Dingac or Postup), known as the “king of the Croatian red wines”. The name refers to the small blue grapes; in Croatian plavo means blue and plavac refers to 'what is blue'; mali means small. Plavac Mali is known for producing wines that are rich in flavor and high in both alcohol and tannins. Common flavors and aromas include blackberries, dark cherries, pepper, and spices.

THE tunnel

The tunnel ride & Underwater wine cellar

Getting to Plenkovic winery is an experience itself. In order to get on the "happy" side of the island you have to drive through unpaved tunned where two cars cannot pass each other and there are no lights inside - it is pitch black! There is a traffic light regulating safe passage through obscure tunnel that has no lights. One part of the tunnel actually serves as cellar for Plenkovic's wines. Once you get on the "happy" side of the island spectacular view opens up towards Adriatic Sea on one side and steep vineyards rushing towards the 

see on the other side. Another 15 minutes ride and you reach town of Sveta Nedjelja 

Steep vineyards - Plenkovic 

(Saint Sunday). Plenkovic winery estate is situated right on the sea shore and it has an underwater wine cellar where big and bold wines age. You can't really put a price tag on chilling by the crystal clear blue Adriatic sea indulging big Plavac Mali over small bites of local sheep cheese, prosciutto, capers, olives... Look back and you will see breathtaking steep wineyards that are still being treated by hand due to its steep terrain (in the past donkey were used to reach vineyards).

Typical scenery of Sv. Nedjelja

Plenkovic Winery & Underwater cellar

Plenkovic Wine Estate

Plenkovic vinery

Plavac Mali vineyards are mostly located on the south of Croatian Adriatic coast. There are many wineries that make excellent Plavac Mali. One of the best known producers comes from island of Hvar - Plenkovic winery. Winery situated on steep, south facing slopes of the island. Grapes are picked manually, yields are low and there are absolutely no chemicals used for spraying. 

View from winery towards vineyards

View from the vinery

Small country for big wines

Although Croatia is quite a small country (population of about 4.5 million) it is a home to many world renowned wine varieties. Croatia’s viticultural heritage stretches back over 2,500 years, after the Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius Probus commanded vast swathes of land from Germany down to the Danube to be turned over to vineyards. There are presently 33,000-hectares under vine in Croatia, equally split between continental and coastal regions, home to 800 wineries producing wines of controlled origin.

Accomodation
Hvar is also a great party place with many events going on during summer. I would recommend stayin in town Hvar (which is about 40 minutes away from Sveta Nedjelja) at a small boutique hotel Podstine located in a small private bay, only 15 minutes away by Hvar center. If you are into private accomodation check out this agency.

Hvar town

Hvar harbour

Old town Hvar

Hvar harbor from the fort

Hvar is know for lavender fields

(text and photos from: http://www.bluedanubewine.com/winery/zlatan_plenkovic/, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plavac_Mali, http://winesofcroatia.wordpress.com/2010/10/21/robert-parkers-wine-advocate-reviews-croatian-wines-part-i/)

Istria - The land of truffles

Istria - Terra Magica

Searching for a restaurant serving a good truffle dish can be quite a challenge, but now when you're in Istria. Istria is a "V" shaped peninsula situated in most western part of Croatia,  stretching from Opatija (Kvarner region) on the east to Slovenia on the west and north. Istria has a mild Mediterranean climate, with warm and dry summers and mild and pleasant winters while sunshine amounts to 2.388 sunny hours on the average yearly. 

White truffle - pinnacle of gastronomic offering
Chefs around the globe agree with one statement - truffle is the pinnacle of gastronomic offering. It is a very mysterious tuber, hidden underneath the ground. I find it amazing how no human or technology can detect the truffle, but only a well trained dog. Truffles in Istria are located in the Motovun forest, in the central part of Istria where soil is well-hydrated by the nearby river Mirna. Scenery when driving through this valley is phenomenal. No wander why they call Istria - Croatian Tuscany!

Motovun forest and Mirna river

Motovun

Truffles are very affordable in Istria

Like every American town has a McDonalds, every Istrian town has a place that servers truffles. Althought price for a kilo (0.5 lb)  of white truffle can reach up to $10.000, truffle dish prices at local restaurants are very affordable prices. For example a plate of pasta with black or white truffles can cost anywhere from 50 to 200 kuna ($10 - 30$). Don't be fooled by the prices. From my own experience, truffle dish that costs more are not necessarily of better quality. 


Where to try truffles?
Giancarlo Zigante, who owns a restaurant Zigante in town of Livade in Motovun forest, and his dog Diana found one of the largest truffles in the world near Buje. The truffle weighed 1.31 kilograms (2 lb 14 oz) and has entered the Guinness Book of Records. Zigante is an upscale restaurant, but if you are looking for a more affordable place check out konoba Kazeta that offerent excellent white truffles and other traditional Istrian specialties. 


Where to sleep in Istria?
If you want to stay in the vicinity of Motovun forest check out small boutique hotel Kastel located on the hilltop town Motovun, from where view stretches across the Mirna river valley all the way to the Adriatic Sea - absolutelly stunning! Other option is staying at one of the Valamar hotels in Porec.

Porec - located on the coast

Motovun architecture

Motovun - entrance into the fortified town

Magnificent hilltop town of Motovun

Hotel Kastel 

(photos from www.istra.hr,  www.histrica.hr, www.elite.hr, www.hotel-kastel-motovun.hr)

Medieval fair on island of Rab

Island of Rab -  Fair since 1364
Every year in August on island of Rab, situated in the north Adriatic Sea, Rab Tourist Board organizes a medieval summer fair called "Rabska Fjera". This fair dates back to July 21, 1364, when King Ljudevit the Great liberated Rab from Venetians. Fair was revived in 2002 as a town holiday with the main purpose of keeping and developing local and traditional values. 


Medieval Fair in August
If you visit Rab between August 25-27 you will see artisans and craftsmen from the island or Rab whose jobs provided a living in the Middle ages. Many local organizations that nurture traditional crafts, make hand-made products present to visitors how certain objects were crafted back in day day and explain type of living. This is also a cultural/educational event that provides an insight into ancient living. 


Meet the local craftsmen and learn about culture
Several years ago I had a chance to visit Rab during this fair and experience was phenomenal. Three days of concerts, theater plays, street workshops and medieval style parties. Hundreds of people, sposnsored by the Rab City Council, stroll around historic part of the city and seaside promenade in ancient costumes and behaving in manners characteristic for those times. Everyone is very friendly and ready to share information about the event, culture, clothes, concerts...


Opening ceremony
Festivity starts with the opening exhibition of crafts from the middle ages, following the old crafts of fishing. One of the most interesting events is definitely the Knight's Game of Rab, where knights of Rab engage in crossbow competition in the honor of St. Christopher, the patron of Rab, whose relic is stored in the town museum. 


Where to stay on Rab?
Island of Rab is an excellent vacation destination because of its natural beauties and rich cultural heritage. If you would like to find accomodation on Rab check out travel agency Arbia for apartment rental or click here for hotels on Rab.


Stay tuned for new posts!




(photos and text: Rabska Fjera & Rab Touris Board)

Necktie / Kravata / La Cravate / Tie --- country of origin: Croatia

Croatians inventions
Croatians are a very inventive nation. Here are some of the most knows invention coming from croatia: dactyloscopy (fingerprint identification), parachute, double-entry accounting system, torpedo, first health insurance, ball point pen, fountain pen and necktie among many others. In this post I talk a little bit more about the origin of a tie.


Croats start the tie fashion-craze in Europe
When Croatian soldiers came to Paris sometime in 17th century to visit King Louis XIV's court, king was impressed by soldier's small, knotted neckerchiefs around their necks. Because of the difference in pronunciation of word Croat in Croatian - Hrvati, and in French - Croates, the garment gained the name "Cravat". Neckties, or how Parisians called them la Cravate became an instant fashion hit that spread from Paris to the rest of the Europe. 


Looking for a souvenir when visiting Croatia?
So, when you are visiting Croatia and shopping for a perfect souvenire, look no further - tie is the perfect choice. In many tourist resorts along the Adriatic coast you can find specialized stores that sell only neckties, neck scarfs or shawls. One of the most pooular stores is called "Croata"and they even offer limited series of hand-made neckties combining high end materials and  intricate design/patterns. "Croata" brand ties are also available in numerous retail stores, although "Croata" flagship stores offer more than just garments - interior design and ambiance resemble history of a tie. 

Cravate installation around arena in Pula, Croatia

Largest cravate (tie) in the world
A special installation was assembled in city of Pula, Croatia in 2003. It happen to be the largest necktie in the world and it was tied around ancient arena monument. 
Tie facts
• Weight: 450 kg / 992 Lb
• Long: 808 m / 2650 Ft
• Maximal width: 25 m / 82 Ft
• Knot was tied at the height of 21 meters (69 feet) , and was 15 meters wide (50 feet) !


Stay tuned for new posts!


(photos and text: Wikipedia, Croatia.org)

Do you want to adopt a dolphin?

Island of Losinj - rich biodiversity
When you choose island of Losinj as your holiday destination, chances are very high you will be coming to this island over and over again. Tourists that visit Cres and Losinj archipelago keep coming back to this island for more than 30 years, each time discovering something new. Besides favorable climate, rich flora and fauna, more than 100 kilometers of seaside promenades and biking and hiking trails in the waters around island of Losinj lives a colony of around 120 Good dolphins - latin: Tursiops Trancatus. 

Research, conservation & education
In 1987 Italian non-governemnt institution Tethys Research Institute along with Croatian Biodiversity Association started to actively research dolphins in the waters of Cres-Losinj archipelago in 1987. In 1999 Blue World Organization was founded. Three main goals of this organization are: research, conservation and education. 



Adopt a dolphin - 20 Euro / 30 USD
The “Adopt a dolphin“ is also a public awareness campaign, where the public is invited to make a donation to the project. In return «adopters» receive an adoption pack which includes:
• Personalised Adoption Certificate 
• Attractive bookmarks 
• A yearly issue of "Aquamarin" magazine
• A leaflet on Adriatic Dolphin Project 
• Photo of the dolphin with informative text 
• Periodic reports on your dolphin's life 
If you wish to adopt a dolphin you can do it either in Veli Lošinj or on-line at www.blue-world.org


I adopted a dolphin several years ago and have to tell you it is a very special experience. At the time dolphin that I adopted who was pregnant, and Blue World informed me when she gave birth. I thought that was awesome! 


Annual Dolphin Day
Every first saturday of August, in the center of picturesque town of Veli Losinj, Blue World Organization organizes all-day event called The Dolphin Day. Visitors, tourists and locals have a chance to learn more about this extraordinary creatures in numerous workshops, lectures, exhibitions, sports events and games. If you're around, don't miss this unique opportunity to talk to dolphin experts!


In case you would like to volunteer check-out  Adriatic Dolphin Project website.

Photos in this blog are a courtesy of Blue World Organization. 


Where to stay?
For accommodation options on island of Losinj check out these great sea-view apartments. 






Stay tuned for new posts!

Why visit Dubrovnik?

Stradun - main street in Old Town

Dubrovnik - Pearl of the Adriatic
One of the most famous tourist resorts on the Croatian Adriatic is the old city of Dubrovnik. It is located on the most southern part of Croatia and many renowned travel magazines like Conde Nast Traveler call it the"Pearl of the Adriatic." There are many people that have not heard of Croatia, but have heard about Dubrovnik - which says a lot about Dubrovnik's status on the world travel map. 

Famous Beach Banje overlooking the Old Town

Dubrovnik is a city that can pride itself by its beauty, typical Mediterranan lifestyle and rich cultural heritage, which is why many of its buildings are today protected by UNESCO. 2554 hours of sun hours per year makes it one of the sunniest places in Europe!

Ancient City Walls 

View from Minceta fortress

When you visit Dubrovnik you will first see monumental city walls that surround the old part of the city. They are almost 2 km long (1.2 miles), 25 meters high (82 feet) while it depth ranges anywhere from 2 to 6 meters (7 - 10 feet). Along the city walls there are number of fortresses that play an integral part in city life. Fortress Lovrijenac, with walls thick as much as 12 meters (40 feet) at certain parts boasts an amazing courtyard which is each year a home for performance of Shakespeare's Hamlet. Fortress Micenta has a crown-like shape and is often reffered to as "La bella femme" or "Beautiful women's crow" reffering to the 70 tons heavy cannon located within the structure.

Loverijenac fortress

Minceta fortress

Dubrovnik Summer Festival

Summer Festival opening ceremony

For over 50 years Dubrovnik is a host to Dubrovnik Summer Festival that starts with a grandiose  opening ceremony on July 10th and lasts until August 25th. Live plays, concerts and theatrical events take place in every corner of the city. For example you can look at theatrical plays in one of the ancient open-air squares and only few streets further you will stumble upon a serenade performers. Wherever you go you see people dressed traditional Dubrovnik medieval costumes. This is a festival for all senses. 

Dubrovnik Summer Festival fireworks

First European Pharmacy and First European Maritime Law

Europe's oldest pharmacy

Dubrovnik is a home to the European first pharmacy, which opened in 1317 and is still open today. If you visit Dubrovnik it is located on the left side when you enter the Old Town from the Pile "gate".

The earliest history of Dubrovnik goes back to Ancient times, at least to the 6th-5th centuries BC. 

Dubrovnik Republic was very famous for building galleons ships for Atlantic travels. For example galleon Dubrovnik's Argosy is mentioned in two Shakespeare's plays: "Merchant of Venice" and "Taming the Shrew."Dubrovnik's 1395 Insurance Law is the oldest in Europe and it had all aspects of contemporary maritime insurance. This law is three centuries older than Lloyd's insurance, London, which dates from the end of 17th century.