Susak island - 100% sand

Unique Susak
Susak is one of the most unique islands on the Adriatic coast. It is located in the North Adriatic Sea in the region called Kvarner. Susak's origin, geology, architecture, tradition, animal, plants, language... it is a story for itself. 






A big pile of fine fertile sand

Drawings in sand

I have visited the island dozen of times and each time it amazes me with its uniqness. Like most of the islands in the Mediterranean sea it has a limestone plateau but on top of it Susak has a massive pile of fine fertile sand - which makes it one of a kind. Geologists even today wonder where the sand came from: one theory suggest that it came during the last ice age from river Rasa, while the other one claims that it came from Italian river Po. Whatever the case might be this IS a unique and interesting place to visit.

View of the bay from upper village

Sansego = Oregano
Name Susak or how local call it Sansego, comes from the Greek word Sansegus which means oregano, which is abundant throughout the island. There are two villages on the island: Gorenje selo (upper village) located on the hill and Donje selo (lower village). 

Traditional folk-custome during festival

Tradition folk-custumes and language
Susak is Island that is one of the most distant islands from the Croatian mainland and therefore it has retained many original traditions , such as archaic dialect and folk-costumes that are unique only to this little island. Dialect is impossible to understand whether you're Croatian, Italian, Austrian... Traditional folk-costumes are considered the most beautiful among all Croatian folk-costumes - rich in color and intricate details. Young women wear colorful short ballet tutu-shaped skirt, a matching vest and pink or orange woolen stockings. Now-days, traditional costumes are worn only for special festivities by young woman and men who perform traditional Susak dance. 


Migration to USA

The end of communist regime in 1990 marked a turning point in history of this island. People who have emigrated, once again could freely return to their island. However, due to the fact that most of these people still had jobs, families and their whole new lives in the United States, almost none have returned for good. The ones who retired have chosen to spend their last days on the island where they were born.

Vineyards in sand

Susak has long tradition in growing vine, even from Roman times, so it is considered that Susak wines are one of the best in Croatia. Vineyards are located on the hilltop of the island and it is impressive to see how Susak variety of wine has adapted to sand soil. When you're on Susak make sure you visit Kozulich winery in the upper village and try Sansego or Trojiscina red wine.

Accommodation
There are many houses on Susak that are available for rent. One of the is apartments Tarabokija or check out local agency. In case you are visiting Susak just for the day, then I recommend staying in seaside apartments in nearby island of Losinj.

(text and photos: www.wikipedia.com, www.find-croatia.com, www.tz-malilosinj.hr)

Croatia - small country for BIG wines

Viticulture - Plavac Mali

Saint Nedjelja - Hvar island

One of the best known Croatian wines, and my personal favorite is Plavac Mali (aka known as Dingac or Postup), known as the “king of the Croatian red wines”. The name refers to the small blue grapes; in Croatian plavo means blue and plavac refers to 'what is blue'; mali means small. Plavac Mali is known for producing wines that are rich in flavor and high in both alcohol and tannins. Common flavors and aromas include blackberries, dark cherries, pepper, and spices.

THE tunnel

The tunnel ride & Underwater wine cellar

Getting to Plenkovic winery is an experience itself. In order to get on the "happy" side of the island you have to drive through unpaved tunned where two cars cannot pass each other and there are no lights inside - it is pitch black! There is a traffic light regulating safe passage through obscure tunnel that has no lights. One part of the tunnel actually serves as cellar for Plenkovic's wines. Once you get on the "happy" side of the island spectacular view opens up towards Adriatic Sea on one side and steep vineyards rushing towards the 

see on the other side. Another 15 minutes ride and you reach town of Sveta Nedjelja 

Steep vineyards - Plenkovic 

(Saint Sunday). Plenkovic winery estate is situated right on the sea shore and it has an underwater wine cellar where big and bold wines age. You can't really put a price tag on chilling by the crystal clear blue Adriatic sea indulging big Plavac Mali over small bites of local sheep cheese, prosciutto, capers, olives... Look back and you will see breathtaking steep wineyards that are still being treated by hand due to its steep terrain (in the past donkey were used to reach vineyards).

Typical scenery of Sv. Nedjelja

Plenkovic Winery & Underwater cellar

Plenkovic Wine Estate

Plenkovic vinery

Plavac Mali vineyards are mostly located on the south of Croatian Adriatic coast. There are many wineries that make excellent Plavac Mali. One of the best known producers comes from island of Hvar - Plenkovic winery. Winery situated on steep, south facing slopes of the island. Grapes are picked manually, yields are low and there are absolutely no chemicals used for spraying. 

View from winery towards vineyards

View from the vinery

Small country for big wines

Although Croatia is quite a small country (population of about 4.5 million) it is a home to many world renowned wine varieties. Croatia’s viticultural heritage stretches back over 2,500 years, after the Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius Probus commanded vast swathes of land from Germany down to the Danube to be turned over to vineyards. There are presently 33,000-hectares under vine in Croatia, equally split between continental and coastal regions, home to 800 wineries producing wines of controlled origin.

Accomodation
Hvar is also a great party place with many events going on during summer. I would recommend stayin in town Hvar (which is about 40 minutes away from Sveta Nedjelja) at a small boutique hotel Podstine located in a small private bay, only 15 minutes away by Hvar center. If you are into private accomodation check out this agency.

Hvar town

Hvar harbour

Old town Hvar

Hvar harbor from the fort

Hvar is know for lavender fields

(text and photos from: http://www.bluedanubewine.com/winery/zlatan_plenkovic/, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plavac_Mali, http://winesofcroatia.wordpress.com/2010/10/21/robert-parkers-wine-advocate-reviews-croatian-wines-part-i/)

Medieval fair on island of Rab

Island of Rab -  Fair since 1364
Every year in August on island of Rab, situated in the north Adriatic Sea, Rab Tourist Board organizes a medieval summer fair called "Rabska Fjera". This fair dates back to July 21, 1364, when King Ljudevit the Great liberated Rab from Venetians. Fair was revived in 2002 as a town holiday with the main purpose of keeping and developing local and traditional values. 


Medieval Fair in August
If you visit Rab between August 25-27 you will see artisans and craftsmen from the island or Rab whose jobs provided a living in the Middle ages. Many local organizations that nurture traditional crafts, make hand-made products present to visitors how certain objects were crafted back in day day and explain type of living. This is also a cultural/educational event that provides an insight into ancient living. 


Meet the local craftsmen and learn about culture
Several years ago I had a chance to visit Rab during this fair and experience was phenomenal. Three days of concerts, theater plays, street workshops and medieval style parties. Hundreds of people, sposnsored by the Rab City Council, stroll around historic part of the city and seaside promenade in ancient costumes and behaving in manners characteristic for those times. Everyone is very friendly and ready to share information about the event, culture, clothes, concerts...


Opening ceremony
Festivity starts with the opening exhibition of crafts from the middle ages, following the old crafts of fishing. One of the most interesting events is definitely the Knight's Game of Rab, where knights of Rab engage in crossbow competition in the honor of St. Christopher, the patron of Rab, whose relic is stored in the town museum. 


Where to stay on Rab?
Island of Rab is an excellent vacation destination because of its natural beauties and rich cultural heritage. If you would like to find accomodation on Rab check out travel agency Arbia for apartment rental or click here for hotels on Rab.


Stay tuned for new posts!




(photos and text: Rabska Fjera & Rab Touris Board)