Wednesday, March 23, 2011

Istria - The land of truffles

Istria - Terra Magica
Searching for a restaurant serving a good truffle dish can be quite a challenge, but now when you're in Istria. Istria is a "V" shaped peninsula situated in most western part of Croatia,  stretching from Opatija (Kvarner region) on the east to Slovenia on the west and north. Istria has a mild Mediterranean climate, with warm and dry summers and mild and pleasant winters while sunshine amounts to 2.388 sunny hours on the average yearly. 




White truffle - pinnacle of gastronomic offering
Chefs around the globe agree with one statement - truffle is the pinnacle of gastronomic offering. It is a very mysterious tuber, hidden underneath the ground. I find it amazing how no human or technology can detect the truffle, but only a well trained dog. Truffles in Istria are located in the Motovun forest, in the central part of Istria where soil is well-hydrated by the nearby river Mirna. Scenery when driving through this valley is phenomenal. No wander why they call Istria - Croatian Tuscany!
Motovun forest and Mirna river


Motovun




Truffles are very affordable in Istria
Like every American town has a McDonalds, every Istrian town has a place that servers truffles. Althought price for a kilo (0.5 lb)  of white truffle can reach up to $10.000, truffle dish prices at local restaurants are very affordable prices. For example a plate of pasta with black or white truffles can cost anywhere from 50 to 200 kuna ($10 - 30$). Don't be fooled by the prices. From my own experience, truffle dish that costs more are not necessarily of better quality. 


Where to try truffles?
Giancarlo Zigante, who owns a restaurant Zigante in town of Livade in Motovun forest, and his dog Diana found one of the largest truffles in the world near Buje. The truffle weighed 1.31 kilograms (2 lb 14 oz) and has entered the Guinness Book of Records. Zigante is an upscale restaurant, but if you are looking for a more affordable place check out konoba Kazeta that offerent excellent white truffles and other traditional Istrian specialties. 


Where to sleep in Istria?
If you want to stay in the vicinity of Motovun forest check out small boutique hotel Kastel located on the hilltop town Motovun, from where view stretches across the Mirna river valley all the way to the Adriatic Sea - absolutelly stunning! Other option is staying at one of the Valamar hotels in Porec.



Porec - located on the coast
Motovun architecture
Motovun - entrance into the fortified town
Magnificent hilltop town of Motovun
Hotel Kastel 


(photos from www.istra.hr,  www.histrica.hr, www.elite.hr, www.hotel-kastel-motovun.hr)

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