Susak island - 100% sand

Unique Susak
Susak is one of the most unique islands on the Adriatic coast. It is located in the North Adriatic Sea in the region called Kvarner. Susak's origin, geology, architecture, tradition, animal, plants, language... it is a story for itself. 






A big pile of fine fertile sand

Drawings in sand

I have visited the island dozen of times and each time it amazes me with its uniqness. Like most of the islands in the Mediterranean sea it has a limestone plateau but on top of it Susak has a massive pile of fine fertile sand - which makes it one of a kind. Geologists even today wonder where the sand came from: one theory suggest that it came during the last ice age from river Rasa, while the other one claims that it came from Italian river Po. Whatever the case might be this IS a unique and interesting place to visit.

View of the bay from upper village

Sansego = Oregano
Name Susak or how local call it Sansego, comes from the Greek word Sansegus which means oregano, which is abundant throughout the island. There are two villages on the island: Gorenje selo (upper village) located on the hill and Donje selo (lower village). 

Traditional folk-custome during festival

Tradition folk-custumes and language
Susak is Island that is one of the most distant islands from the Croatian mainland and therefore it has retained many original traditions , such as archaic dialect and folk-costumes that are unique only to this little island. Dialect is impossible to understand whether you're Croatian, Italian, Austrian... Traditional folk-costumes are considered the most beautiful among all Croatian folk-costumes - rich in color and intricate details. Young women wear colorful short ballet tutu-shaped skirt, a matching vest and pink or orange woolen stockings. Now-days, traditional costumes are worn only for special festivities by young woman and men who perform traditional Susak dance. 


Migration to USA

The end of communist regime in 1990 marked a turning point in history of this island. People who have emigrated, once again could freely return to their island. However, due to the fact that most of these people still had jobs, families and their whole new lives in the United States, almost none have returned for good. The ones who retired have chosen to spend their last days on the island where they were born.

Vineyards in sand

Susak has long tradition in growing vine, even from Roman times, so it is considered that Susak wines are one of the best in Croatia. Vineyards are located on the hilltop of the island and it is impressive to see how Susak variety of wine has adapted to sand soil. When you're on Susak make sure you visit Kozulich winery in the upper village and try Sansego or Trojiscina red wine.

Accommodation
There are many houses on Susak that are available for rent. One of the is apartments Tarabokija or check out local agency. In case you are visiting Susak just for the day, then I recommend staying in seaside apartments in nearby island of Losinj.

(text and photos: www.wikipedia.com, www.find-croatia.com, www.tz-malilosinj.hr)

Hum - officially smallest city in the world!

Typical Istrian landscape

Map if Istra region

Smallest town - Guinness World Records

When you come to Istra region, or as many people refer to it as Croatian Tuscany, my recommendation is not to follow any road signs. Just get lost driving around the inland of Istra peninsula. Enjoy picturesque hilltop towns and villages that have magnificent vistas that reach all the way to the Adriatic sea. If you're lucky enough you will find Hum, the smallest town in the world according to the Guinness World Records book.

Local gardens in Hum

Hum - smallest town in the world

 

Hum

Ripening vineyards and olive farms

Hum is probably smaller than most villages around the world. Situated between ripening vineyards and olive farms, his hilltop town is painted in a rainbow of pastel shades. The town tour can be completed in as little as ten minutes, however its medieval charm makes it worth for every effort made to find this medieval jewel.

Founded in 11th century

First official mention of Hum was in 1102, when it was signed over to Patriarch of Aquilea. Today, Hum counts about 23 residents, and is very special due to the fact that it is one of the rare preserved examples of urban development inside the medieval walls. Since the already mentioned 11th century up to the present moment, there has literally been built nothing more than one building, and that was the Italian school, dating from 1892.

What to visit in Hum?

It is definitelly visiting famous Aleja glagoljaša (Glagolithic Avenue), a series of 11 monuments dedicated to the Glagolitic script, put up between Roc und Hum and St. Jerolim Church, which holds aged frescoes and inscriptions in the ancient Glagolitic script, said to be the first form of written Croatian.

Local brandy - 2000 years old secret recipe kept better than that of Coca Cola

Don't leave Hum before visiting the legendary Humska konoba (Hum tavern) and have a straight shot of biska, a home-made brandy, made from grape-brandy, mistletoe and four arts of herbs, based on a two-thousand-year-old recipe. People call it the magic drink because one is never enough, and don't even try to get the recipe because its secret is guarded better than the one of Coca Cola. However, you can get as much refills as you want; some on the house too!

Truffle dishes

Local cheese and prosciutto

Accommodation & vegeterian truffle burger

 Hum is located in the north eastern part of Istria, and is connected via roads from the direction of Pazin and Buzet, and from the direction of Rijeka via the Ucka tunnel. Hum does not have any accomodation offering - I would recommend staying at small private hotel in town of Motovun (that I talked about in one of my previous posts). Another option is to go to nearby town Buzet, which is also known as a "truffle city" and stay at apartment Beli Mate, which serves delicious vegeterian truffle burgers.

Apartments "Beli Mate" in Buzet

Hilltop town in Istria

Istra is great destination for biking

 

Welcome to Hum

(text and pictures from: http://www.europeupclose.com/article/the-worlds-smallest-town-hum-croatia/#ixzz1HkMPoUYi, http://www.travelpod.ca/travel-blog-entries/croriver/1/1245760293/tpod.html#ixzz1HkN9wH8e, www.istra.hr, www.histrica.hr)

Croatia - small country for BIG wines

Viticulture - Plavac Mali

Saint Nedjelja - Hvar island

One of the best known Croatian wines, and my personal favorite is Plavac Mali (aka known as Dingac or Postup), known as the “king of the Croatian red wines”. The name refers to the small blue grapes; in Croatian plavo means blue and plavac refers to 'what is blue'; mali means small. Plavac Mali is known for producing wines that are rich in flavor and high in both alcohol and tannins. Common flavors and aromas include blackberries, dark cherries, pepper, and spices.

THE tunnel

The tunnel ride & Underwater wine cellar

Getting to Plenkovic winery is an experience itself. In order to get on the "happy" side of the island you have to drive through unpaved tunned where two cars cannot pass each other and there are no lights inside - it is pitch black! There is a traffic light regulating safe passage through obscure tunnel that has no lights. One part of the tunnel actually serves as cellar for Plenkovic's wines. Once you get on the "happy" side of the island spectacular view opens up towards Adriatic Sea on one side and steep vineyards rushing towards the 

see on the other side. Another 15 minutes ride and you reach town of Sveta Nedjelja 

Steep vineyards - Plenkovic 

(Saint Sunday). Plenkovic winery estate is situated right on the sea shore and it has an underwater wine cellar where big and bold wines age. You can't really put a price tag on chilling by the crystal clear blue Adriatic sea indulging big Plavac Mali over small bites of local sheep cheese, prosciutto, capers, olives... Look back and you will see breathtaking steep wineyards that are still being treated by hand due to its steep terrain (in the past donkey were used to reach vineyards).

Typical scenery of Sv. Nedjelja

Plenkovic Winery & Underwater cellar

Plenkovic Wine Estate

Plenkovic vinery

Plavac Mali vineyards are mostly located on the south of Croatian Adriatic coast. There are many wineries that make excellent Plavac Mali. One of the best known producers comes from island of Hvar - Plenkovic winery. Winery situated on steep, south facing slopes of the island. Grapes are picked manually, yields are low and there are absolutely no chemicals used for spraying. 

View from winery towards vineyards

View from the vinery

Small country for big wines

Although Croatia is quite a small country (population of about 4.5 million) it is a home to many world renowned wine varieties. Croatia’s viticultural heritage stretches back over 2,500 years, after the Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius Probus commanded vast swathes of land from Germany down to the Danube to be turned over to vineyards. There are presently 33,000-hectares under vine in Croatia, equally split between continental and coastal regions, home to 800 wineries producing wines of controlled origin.

Accomodation
Hvar is also a great party place with many events going on during summer. I would recommend stayin in town Hvar (which is about 40 minutes away from Sveta Nedjelja) at a small boutique hotel Podstine located in a small private bay, only 15 minutes away by Hvar center. If you are into private accomodation check out this agency.

Hvar town

Hvar harbour

Old town Hvar

Hvar harbor from the fort

Hvar is know for lavender fields

(text and photos from: http://www.bluedanubewine.com/winery/zlatan_plenkovic/, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plavac_Mali, http://winesofcroatia.wordpress.com/2010/10/21/robert-parkers-wine-advocate-reviews-croatian-wines-part-i/)

Istria - The land of truffles

Istria - Terra Magica

Searching for a restaurant serving a good truffle dish can be quite a challenge, but now when you're in Istria. Istria is a "V" shaped peninsula situated in most western part of Croatia,  stretching from Opatija (Kvarner region) on the east to Slovenia on the west and north. Istria has a mild Mediterranean climate, with warm and dry summers and mild and pleasant winters while sunshine amounts to 2.388 sunny hours on the average yearly. 

White truffle - pinnacle of gastronomic offering
Chefs around the globe agree with one statement - truffle is the pinnacle of gastronomic offering. It is a very mysterious tuber, hidden underneath the ground. I find it amazing how no human or technology can detect the truffle, but only a well trained dog. Truffles in Istria are located in the Motovun forest, in the central part of Istria where soil is well-hydrated by the nearby river Mirna. Scenery when driving through this valley is phenomenal. No wander why they call Istria - Croatian Tuscany!

Motovun forest and Mirna river

Motovun

Truffles are very affordable in Istria

Like every American town has a McDonalds, every Istrian town has a place that servers truffles. Althought price for a kilo (0.5 lb)  of white truffle can reach up to $10.000, truffle dish prices at local restaurants are very affordable prices. For example a plate of pasta with black or white truffles can cost anywhere from 50 to 200 kuna ($10 - 30$). Don't be fooled by the prices. From my own experience, truffle dish that costs more are not necessarily of better quality. 


Where to try truffles?
Giancarlo Zigante, who owns a restaurant Zigante in town of Livade in Motovun forest, and his dog Diana found one of the largest truffles in the world near Buje. The truffle weighed 1.31 kilograms (2 lb 14 oz) and has entered the Guinness Book of Records. Zigante is an upscale restaurant, but if you are looking for a more affordable place check out konoba Kazeta that offerent excellent white truffles and other traditional Istrian specialties. 


Where to sleep in Istria?
If you want to stay in the vicinity of Motovun forest check out small boutique hotel Kastel located on the hilltop town Motovun, from where view stretches across the Mirna river valley all the way to the Adriatic Sea - absolutelly stunning! Other option is staying at one of the Valamar hotels in Porec.

Porec - located on the coast

Motovun architecture

Motovun - entrance into the fortified town

Magnificent hilltop town of Motovun

Hotel Kastel 

(photos from www.istra.hr,  www.histrica.hr, www.elite.hr, www.hotel-kastel-motovun.hr)

Meet griffon vulture while on holiday

Unstress on Cres

Cres island is one of a kind island on the Adriatic coast. It is the biggest Croatian island, situated at the northern tip of Kvarner gulf. Although scarcely populated, island Cres has been inhabited since later stone age.  
Vegetation is incredibly diverse: from scarce rocky pastures, scattered olive and fig trees, to dense shrubs, coastal forests and finally rich pine forests - over a thousand plant species. Birds play a vital part of the island biodiversity system - there are more than 100 breeding bird species across the island, while the most famous of these is the Eurasian Griffon Vulture around which the island’s entire biodiversity revolves.

                                                      
Hilltop village Beli
In order to protect Eurasian griffon vulture, one of the most endangered bird species in Europe that is threatened with extinction, in 1993 a couple of academics and reserachers opened Eco Centar Caput Insulae. Eco center is located in hilltop village Beli in the north part of the island. In order to get to Beli you first have to conquer the challenge of driving through a tiny, wavy road where two cars can barely pass each other. Getting there is an experience itself! Once you get there you will be amazed by the beauty of this charming village with several excellent restaurants serving local dishes like roasted lamb!




Largest vulture sanctuary in Europe
This Eco Center is the largest vulture sanctuary in Europe. During summer month dozens of young volunteers from all over the world participate in a number of various programs like protection of Eurasian griffon, restoration of drystone walls, 

rescuing freshwater ponds, managing eco-trails, work in the  interpretation center, making souvenirs and many others. When you visit the center you will be given a tour of the house, which has been turned into museum. In the back of the house is large netted vulture sanctuary where you can observe them from close distance.

Where to stay?

It is very hard to find accommodation in village of Beli, but Cres town is very close. I suggest checking out local travel agency Croatia, or you can stay in family apartments in Mali Losinj, a city about 40 minutes by car from Cres.

Cres Town

Marina in Cres

Stay tuned!

(images from www.supovi.hr and www.cres.hr)